PROF. SERGIO ANSUINI | ROME, 11 APRIL 2025
In the second half of the 18th century, “Folies” were places where the Parisian high nobility organized night parties with concerts, performances, and ballets. Starting in 1830, it became fashionable to call theatres “Folies,” and in 1869, France’s most iconic venue, the “Folies Bergère,” was inaugurated. By 1980, it celebrated its 50 millionth spectator. Over its 150-year history, it hosted legendary performers like Lina Cavalieri, La Belle Otero, Maurice Chevalier, Josephine Baker, and Mistinguett, and inspired artists such as Toulouse-Lautrec, Manet, and Proust.
(Édouard Manet – The Bar at the Folies-Bergère, 1881–1882)
In the early 1960s, Europe was experiencing a prosperous era. Wealth was spreading, and the bourgeoisie found in social life, parties, and receptions an opportunity to show off their newfound prosperity.
In this atmosphere, the Folies Bergère presented in one of its most memorable shows a tableau featuring the “Grands Joailliers“—Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Chaumet, and Mauboussin. These were the names seen in Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar—the world’s most important jewelers.
In 1827, Rocher and his cousin Baptiste Noury opened a goldsmith’s workshop in Paris.
By 1850, Noury became sole owner. The atelier’s creations gained increasing acclaim, and in 1878 it was awarded a medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition.
(Portrait of George Mauboussin)
George Mauboussin (1862–1954), Baptiste’s nephew, was born in the countryside to a blacksmith and a seamstress. At just 11 years old, he was sent as an apprentice to his uncle’s firm. In 1883, he took over the workshop’s management, became owner in 1896, and renamed the company “Mauboussin successeur de Noury.”
In the early 1900s, George moved the company to Rue Choiseul, consolidating the workshop, salesroom, and exhibition space. To stand out among major names like Melero, Vever, Cartier, and Boucheron, he embraced color—rubies, emeralds, and sapphires set in platinum to enhance their brilliance.
After World War I, the Maison experienced significant growth. Mauboussin actively participated in early international exhibitions: Milan in 1923, New York and Strasbourg in 1924. It won the Grand Prix at the 1925 Exposition des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and was awarded the Légion d’Honneur for its contribution to the world of jewelry.
In 1928, George organized a major exhibition inside the jewelry house, showcasing 235 jewels, including a 24-carat emerald once gifted by Napoleon to Joséphine de Beauharnais.
(Mauboussin Brooch, 1930s)
Mauboussin’s Art Deco jewelry, including vibrant fruit brooches and geometric necklaces adorned with jade, lacquer, lapis lazuli, pearls, and coral, remain among the finest examples of French jewelry. Celebrity clients included Charlie Chaplin, Paulette Goddard, and Marlene Dietrich.
Following its success, the maison opened branches in London, Buenos Aires, Rio de Janeiro, and New York.
The 1929 economic crisis hit hard, leading to the closure of the London and South American branches. The North American office was sold to a New York jeweler, forming the company Trabert & Hoeffer Inc. Mauboussin, which maintained strong commercial ties with Paris.
After Pierre Mauboussin’s death in 1934, Marcel Goulet—Baptiste Noury’s grandson and Pierre’s cousin—took over the business with his son Jean, who became director in 1943.
(*Mauboussin Ring with Sapphire and Diamonds)
The post-war era saw a global return to luxury, with French jewelry leading the way. Major houses like Boucheron, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Chaumet established themselves in Place Vendôme, creating a hub of high jewelry, and Mauboussin followed suit, opening at No. 20. Success continued, with branches opening in Cannes, Vichy, and Saint-Jean-de-Luz. In 1972, Alain Goulet Mauboussin, Jean’s son, took over management, and in 1975, his brother Patrick joined the company as co-director.
Things later took a downturn. In 1998, when Mauboussin lost its main client—the Sultan of Brunei—the company struggled financially and was sold in 2002 to Swiss financier Dominique Frémont.
*In the photo: A Mauboussin platinum ring with Ceylon sapphire and diamonds, offered at auction by ANSUINI 1860 ASTE on April 15, 2025.